Winter Fun in Russia. Part III (''Russian Troika'')

Let me share with you one more idea to enjoy your winter vacation in Russia – a legendary ''Russian Troika'' (or ''troyka'') horse ride. After much abandoning this traditional pastime during communist times, it fortunately again becomes popular kind of sport and just amusement.

Basically, the term ‘’troika’’ is a three-horse team of special design, which draws sledge or carriage. The term’s other meaning is wild, speedy dashing race, wide steppes and the cold Russian winter: fur hats and garment, valenki (the kind of footwear – felt boots), warm blankets and sure, a stop for a glass of fine, original Russian vodka to get warm and continue the journey.

Something that makes troika a uniquely Russian invention is the special arc harness, serving as a fine shock-absorber when riding through the pretty rough Russian roads. To understand how it works, look at the picture below:

The troika of Orlov trotters

Over the wither of the middle horse you can see a huge wooden part that holds and fixes the shafts to the harness.

The wing horses' traces are also fixed to the vehicle; they hold splinter bars, which are attached to the outside of each wing horse and their heads are bending to the outside via a special, fixed leather belt.

Due to this pretty complex construction, the whip of a troika has to watch over 4 reins: two for the center horse (left rein in left hand, right rein in right hand) and one outer rein for each of the wing horses in the corresponding hand.

However the true mastery of whip is to be in control for different paces of all three horses simultaneously! Thus, the middle horse is supposed to trot, whereas the rest two (wing horses) are galloping. It is pretty problematic to force two wing horses into unnatural body posture all the time, so no wonder that the like skill takes a few years to train daily.

That’s why they used to harness only the best trained horse to run the center. As a rule, it is Orlov trotter. ‘’Orlov’’ is the specially bred Russian horse that used in troika racing competitions due to its ability to develop a very speedy, straight trot (check http://www.horses.ru/orlov_trotter.htm to learn more about Orlovs’ history).

The forehorse, the leader in the team, Orlov trotter is the key responsible figure that brings beauty and harmony to the whole — team and carriage. Exactly its flashing trot imposes control and direction while two other horses just help him to move the carriage and maneuver it best.

Russian troika appeared in its familiar for Russians sight in the middle of the 18th century. Back to then, it used to be a traditional style of cold weather transportation. Passengers bundled up in furs in the back of the sledge to ward off often dangerously low temperatures.

Today ‘’troika’’ is one of most internationally recognized and most famous symbols of Russia. This image of three horses, put together in a team in a horizontal row in front of a carriage or a sleigh commonly featured on Russian folk art, pictures, novelties, and also in classic Russian literature, like for example in the world-famous novel ''Dead Souls'' of Nikolai Gogol.

Palekh lacquer miniature

To understand such a phenomenal national love for Troika, one should conceive the greatest role the horse used to play for centuries in Russia. Apart from the work, horses participated in all events of social life. Be it a wedding procession or merry Pancake week’s celebration, no holiday in the old days could be made without them. Much of this tradition is renovated nowadays. For example, many newly married couples instead of inevitable limousine, often book a romantic wedding carriage.

But perhaps flip side of the coin is that Troika always was something more than just three horses, harnessed abreast.

Designed to fast speed wide distance of spacey continent, where poor, mud-locked roads and snow still always rule, in some allegorical sense, it was always reflection of the spacious and also pretty reckless Russian soul.

‘Spacious soul’, 'big nature' – that likely be the first thing to hear from a Russian if asked about the Russian national character. The phrase may sound a commonplace, yet its meaning is not so easy to define. "Russian people are altogether spacious people, just like their land, and extremely inclined to the fantastic and disorderly", — a Dostoyevsky's character says in "Crime and Punishment".

And it is very true. Just imagine the vast expanses of this huge country stretching over the continent and uniting Europe and Asia, with a great variety of cultures, landscapes, and nations… and you will perceive its infinity that reverberates in the unconscious collective mind of its people. One human life is far from enough to see all the places of this land, its riches seems impossible to waste and sure, its spaces are quite hard to control. That’s where the Russian spontaneity and generosity from one hand and weakness for extremes and longing for the known from other hand, plus everlasting (charming though!) unpredictability come from. Nuclear cocktail LOL ;-))

Thus, troika symbol is not just prominent part of national heritage but in many respects the very essence of Russian mentality.

''[Troika] …It could not have been a more quintessentially Russian scene — at least to the eyes of westerners reared on Doctor Zhivago'', says Telegraph (you can read the full article here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1543285/Russia-driving-a-sled-and-horses-back-to-past.html )

If you want to see with your own eyes what the real Troika racings is about, here is the video I found on-line today:

Oh and just in case, you’re enough adventurous to try this exotic, typically Russian thing during your stay, ''Gold Horseshoe'' (http://www.gold-podkova.ru/troika.htm) seems one of most well-established services, specializing exclusively in horse activities (troika experience included). Actually their website is in Russian only but I don’t mind to help you with translation if you got really interested.

Honestly, Russian troika ride is something you are going to fall in love from the very first minute! : )

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OK, feels like here our conversation about winter fun in Russia draws to a close. I enjoyed talking to you about everything that makes Russian winter is so special and I hope at least one of national attractions captured your attention.

But I can’t let you go without one last word of caution: Russian winter time can be fascinating but it’s often insidious. So unless you are in a warm refuge, avoid drinking alcohol in open air especially during some celebrations. It may seem a popular national method to get warm but actually fastest way to get frostbite. Also, remember that depending on location you are about to visit, Russian winters can be quite cold and it is hard to get by without fur coat, hat and boots. Clothes should be fewer but when choosing them, make sure they are really warm.

Bon voyage!